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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.